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Evaluation: Bertani 2020 Valpolicella Ripasso and 2012 Amarone

Established in 1857, Bertani is a longtime producer of Valpolicella wines, together with the 2 iconic bottlings we have a look at right now — a 2012 Amarone and 2020 Ripasso. The model is credited with inventing the Amarone type, so one can assume these are going to be on level.

2020 Bertani Valpolicella Ripasso DOC – Bertani’s Valpolicella Ripasso occupies, as they are saying, “a center floor between its lighter Valpolicella wine and critical Amarone.” Ripasso (Italian for “re-pass”) is made partially like Amarone, with pressed, dried grapes partially fermented, then added to to Valpolicella wine, which provides complexity, alcohol, and sweetness. The ensuing “child Amarone” is ready to be consumed instantly moderately than aged in cellar. The outcomes listed here are a bit unripe, with notes of rhubarb and underdeveloped plum exhibiting up entrance, finally making this wine present finest with meals, the place a contact of greenness might help mood a richer dish. A lot lighter on its ft than Amarone, notes of raisin seem then disappear halfway by means of the palate, ending on a observe of herbed plum, rhubarb, and tomato leaf. A full circle expertise, actually. B+ / $32

2012 Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG – After 13 years of cautious growing older, this Amarone is rolling at full-tilt, showcasing an oh-so-gentle raisin character that evokes a contact of Port earlier than taking a deep dive right into a mélange of more energizing fruits, florals, and wooden. Some vivid raspberry notes permit touches of orange blossoms, a pinch of bay leaf, and a few lingering chocolate and vanilla parts to all mingle collectively, fading out and in of focus over the course of an extended, evenly tannic expertise. The wine begins its journey as an exploration of fruit, then finishes staring longingly into an ashy hearth, rounded out with citrus peel. Masterful. A / $130

2012 Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG


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